Birthday
I don't think I've had a better present than going to Africa on my birthday. I look back a year ago to the same day and remember having a great party at the Deeter's. Cheeseburgers, mac and cheese, ice cream cake...the works. I was still a week away from going to Africa for the first time. This year I was leaving for Africa. Had a great morning with the parentals and found myself in Dulles airport and waiting for the other 3/4's of the team faster than I could have imagined.
I started to get a little nervous when it was nearly time for our flight to board. Then I finally saw the ladies from Chicago coming down the terminal...then I heard them singing, "Happy Birthday." Suddenly the folks I had been sitting around were all wishing me happy birthday. With in a few minutes we were boarding and on our way.
The flight is as can be expected with being in the same little tube for 19 hours. But soon that was all over (including the b-day,) and we were in Africa. South Africa to be exact. It was a much different trip from the beginning. There were only 4 of us this time. Last year there was 13. This dynamic changed the trip in several ways. With 4 we weren't going to be doing any major projects as far as being directly involved in labor. To the positive side the smaller team allowed a lot more connection within the team. In other words, we got to know each other a lot better. Which was good since the 4 of us make up most of the BGC board.
While waiting for the rental car to be sorted out, I sat down and flipped through a newspaper. There were a lot of things going on in South Africa. One of the biggest things involved Eskom the utilities provider for most of South Africa. There had been riots and issues, the nature of which I don't fully know. But I read in the paper that there were riots in Soweto, a chancellor's house had been torched, and local shops were being robbed. I only mention this because on of our leaders had done mighty battle with Eskom over the phone on behalf of Botshabelo, where we built the playground last year.
Soon we found ourselves crammed into our Toyota Avanza and on our way to Ga-Rankuwa and our family in Zone-7. It was a tight ride, with virtually all airspace packed with luggage and people. Arriving at the house and seeing our friends was a great ending to a long trip. We spent some time catching up, laughing, talking and just enjoying each others company before turning in for the night.
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| Ang and the Ga-Rankuwa kids! |
Burnt Tongue
Thursday morning. That's right with all travel time we spend over a day and a half (including the time zone change) before even getting to our destination. So, Thursday AM, probably around 8 or 9 in SA, which for the States would be about 2-3 AM Eastern time I find myself shuffling into the kitchen to make some hot chocolate.
There is this fabulous little electric kettle we use that heats up in just a few minutes. I poured two packets of Swiss Miss into my new travel Thermos, ad the hot water, stir real good and let it sit for several minutes. Then I take a sip. Time seemed to go into slow-motion. I realized as soon as I put my lips to the lid that it was going to be too hot. But I couldn't correct the upward lifting motion of my arm and what felt like near boiling hot chocolate cascaded over my tongue.
Yes, we drink hot chocolate in South Africa. I'm not a coffee or tea drinker. And it's cold when we go there, at least at night and in the early mornings. For those in the Chicago area, or Harrisburg area think October temperatures. High 30's to Low 40's at night, and this trip I don't think it ever went over 70 during the day.
So, day one, burnt tongue. No worries. I knew I'd be back to normal in a few days. But I learned my lesson about that Thermos mug. It really holds heat well. I would be mixing hot and cold water to get the temp just right for the rest of the trip.
Thursday was a pretty relaxed get adjusted day. We went to the shops and got food for the house and some blankets for the ladies, and various other odds and ends we either planned on buying locally or just forgot to pack. Like towels. Later in the afternoon we headed out to Botshabelo to reunite with our friends there.
With in minutes of getting out of the car my good friend King was nearly knocking me over in excitement. (He is one of the dogs there, and nearly climbed into our van when we left last July.) A few moments later the giant Horatio was towering over me as I sat, equally excited!
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| King. He's thrilled. |
Botshabelo was a little different in attitude as it was there Winter Holiday from school. So we weren't swarmed by children. That's not to say there weren't dozens of kids eager to see us again, but many were doing other things, like playing on the playground. There was a "vacation" feel to the movement of all there. Except for the family that started the place. The Cloete's always seem to have a dozen pots in the fire. And they can all manage them too.
It was a great reunion. Lots of stories and laughs shared. Not to mention a several heart wrenching tales as well. Plans were made for our time there and what we would participate in and contribute to. Before long we found ourselves back in the car headed for Ga-Rankuwa. Our adventure had started.
I have to say it was incredible to be back there. It was as if a part of me was going home. I know I had these feelings last year, and they came again this trip...that I could just stay there. Help out, work and give my life to the kids there. Perhaps that is as genuine as it felt to me. Or maybe I'm just a silly American with delusions. There is so much to see, learn, experience there, and to give to. Give in all aspects. Time, work, money, laughter, tears...joy, forgiveness...life.
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| Marion, Patsy, Leigh, and Nicole |
Ga-Rankuwa
During the time we spent with Bebo and family we were able to help make some repairs and improvements to the house. 20+ year old tile floor, that was peeling and missing was replaced with new tile. The water geyser (heater) was replaced along with some plumbing. Also their stove/oven combo was replaced with a brand new one.
It was great staying in that home again. This year, because of the small team, I stayed in the converted garage alone. In there were the 10 bunk beds that the teams used in previous years. It was crazy thinking I was out there alone, while the 3 ladies from BGC, Bebo, Aniki, 4-5 kids shared 3 beds inside the house. (That said, I'm sure they were warmer!)
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| Bebo's new geyser! |
One day we took Bebo and the two teen girls to the Market in Brits and Hartbeespoort Dam. At the market we got pizza in the same shop (different business) as last year. They had a small pool set up with large balloons that people could get inside. So Jen and Ang got the girls into them. They had a blast. It was hilarious watching them try to stand up and run in them like hamster balls...on water. Then Jen, Ang and Bebo got in and had a go. Even more hilarious.
The market hadn't changed a bit. Everyone wants to sell you the best items in their stall. Lesson: If you don't have money, no one wants to sell to you. My only defense was I had limited cash, and I was saving it for the airport (lesson learned last year) so I didn't have any money with me in the market. Otherwise it would have been gone in the first 30 seconds. For anyone who thinks the folks at Best Buy are "pushy," remember it's a different culture in the Market. I actually got to appreciate more of the pieces this time because I turned into the bag holder for the ladies. They would engage the vendors, and I'd just look around.
After that we headed to the dam. A sight we missed out on last year. It was really something to see. There was a little platform that overlooked the falls side that hung out over the wall a bit. I got over my fear of heights and climbed up there for some great photos. It was a simple but incredible thing to see. The dam itself has a one lane road over it, that would allow one side to cross at a time. Like a permanent construction zone.
We took the girls, Bebo, and Bobo on another adventure...but that comes later.
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| The team at Hartbeespoort Dam |
Bumpy Roads
Wednesday the 13th we got up early. I don't think the rooster was even crowing yet. We loaded up, Bebo went with us, and set out on a 2 day road trip. First up was the annual 5 hour trip to Bergville in the Drakensberg mountains of KwaZulu-Natal. There is a World Vision office there and Jen and Ang sponsor a young boy through them. In past trips they would go to the school and visit him amongst his classmates. This is where we saw the dancing last year. However, since it was holiday, they were able to take him and a friend to lunch at a lodge near the town.
Everyone had a blast. Since it was a smaller group the conversation wasn't as divided and it just felt like a big family meal. I had a Porterhouse steak. Good stuff. There was a playground complete with an "in-ground" trampoline. Everyone had a go on it and some funny photos were snapped. It was good for Jen and Ang to have a really personal visit with their sponsor child.
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| Ang, Spe and Jen with some friends! |
As evening approached we had to go back down the mountains to the main road and head for our next destination, the landlocked country of Lesotho. From the main road to our final destination that night it was another 6 hour drive. Four hours to Lesotho, a border crossing, then 2 hours on roads with no lighting. The drive to Lesotho was gorgeous. We drove for hours through mountain roads. Cliffs, ridges, caves, valleys and wildlife dominated most of the trip until the sun went down. Then the night was illuminated by a nearly complete full moon.
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| KwaZulu-Natal |
Getting to Lesotho and through the border was no problem. Even the first 45 minutes of driving weren't too bad. Then we get to a Y in the road where our directions merely said, "stay left at the Y, dirt road with lots of potholes. Stay left." Now after hearing that description, and seeing what the "main" roads looked like, I had a pretty vivid image of what the dirt road would look...and feel like. Unfortunately our driver, Ang (who did an amazing job driving everywhere the entire trip and never complaining!! You rock Ang!) she didn't have the same visual as I did. And a few dozen feet onto the dirt road (in all but moonlit night) she was convinced it was the wrong road. Until we saw a rough hand painted sign that condemned out little vehicle to the torture of that road.
Now, I make jest in the following section. If I was in my right mind I probably would have been in the same state as the 4 ladies in the car. But you all know I'm not so...
This road was barely wider than our vehicle. And if you didn't "stay left," you'd be educated about gravity in the school of hard knocks. Meaning we'd have plummeted down into a ravine, or down the side of a sheer mountain cliff. I won't name names, but J*n was screeching a kind of sound that wants to make you think it's a laugh, but only cause she's so scared. There were all sorts of other gasps and muffled cries. Ang didn't want any of it because she was so focused on driving. I was loving every breathtaking moment of it. From the back seat I could see the valley, gorges, cliffs etc as the bright moon bathed the landscape.
Sure there were a few moments I was thinking we might die, but I was excited about how cool the trip was. We crawled along at snail pace up, up, up, over this dirt, pothole ridden mountain road for what felt like hours. Then we see another sign, "Gates of Paradise 200 Meters." Which prompted the best quote of the entire trip...which I'll not reproduce here.
We passed through a wall of sorts wasn't sure if it was natural or man made. The car was going up...so that mean the headlights were going up. When we started to angle back down...the lights landed on nothing. It was like going over the first drop of a roller coaster. Eventually the lights came back to the dirt road. It felt like we'd just driven over one hump of the McDonald's M. In front of us the valley expanded to the right and the mountain face to the left. It was beautiful...or so I thought. Again it was really dark...but it looked like it might be beautiful. We eventually made it to the lodge and got into our rooms for the night.
The sights that I saw the next morning made my visions of the night before pale in comparison to what I really saw. A massive valley with huge mountains all around us. Then I see some peacocks up in a massive pine tree. Then one by one they glide down to the grass in front of me. It was photo time. We explored some of the lodge area and had some tea and hot chocolate before meeting our contact. Marion. We thought that was fitting because we had a Marion in Botshabelo. Very different ladies, but sharing a common spirit.
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| View from the lodge. |
Marion in Lesotho at Malealea Lodge works for a Trust that was set up about seven years ago. She's been there a year. This village is very remote and takes determination to get there...in case you missed that in the previous few paragraphs. There aren't really any jobs up there. There is farming. But not like we imagine it here in the States. There's no big equipment. It's cattle and horses pulling plows. There's no electricity except at the lodge. And that is only available four hours a day.
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| Villagers near Malealea Lodge. |
Marion works with the community around the lodge to determine what projects need done. When teams come in with money, supplies and man power, the community decides what will be done. We got to see a road way that a team from Ireland had repaired. Mountain streams had flooded the road and washed it away. With the local community they repaired it and it looks great. Now this road is still a dirt road, but I can imagine what the water had done to it.
She also showed us a few other projects including a greenhouse made out of empty glass soda bottles. After our walk through the village we loaded up in a pick-up and drove to a spot in the road, then hiked up the mountain to the school. Looking out from the water fountain that stood above the building was breathtaking. The valley stretched out like an ocean and the mountains surrounded in every direction. It's hard to really describe and I know the photos don't do justice to the scale and scope.
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| The BGC team in Lesotho. |
After our ride back and a few conversations we loaded up and set out for the long 8 hour drive back to Ga-Rankuwa.
Adventures
Once again the advantage of a small team allowed us to explore a few other things. One thing we all instantly agreed upon doing was a balloon safari. On our way to Botshabelo we would pass one such place. So we popped in one morning and got some info. A few mornings later we were up again at the crack, and on our way to a sunrise balloon safari with Bill Harrop's "Original" Balloon Safari.
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| Straight down! |
This was a breathtaking trip. I highly recommend it to anyone. Even if you have a fear of heights like I do it is well worth going. I felt safe the entire time. It was such a relaxing and awe inspiring event. Once again the photos will not quite capture how amazing the trip really was. We got to see Joburg off in the distance and it looked like a city in the clouds, like something out of a movie. I'm sure other balloon safaris are nice, but this particular one was fantastic. Our pilot, Nick, was informative and hilarious. After landing, we were bussed back to the launch site for a wonderful breakfast spread and great stories from the staff. (Don't ask Nick to go anywhere near a horse...apparently they don't like him!)
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| Up! |
We also went to the Pilanesberg Game Reserve in Pilanesberg National Park. This was an amazing place to visit. The 2nd link here is to the Wikipedia entry. There is a lot of interesting things in that article about the place. We spent hours driving through the bumpy roads and saw giraffes, rhinos, all manner of herd animals, huge variety of birds, hippos, and even some wild dogs (that somewhat resemble hyenas at first glance) and some zebras. (Make sure you say that with a short 'e' not a long one.
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| Zebra in Pilanesberg. |
While both of those were fantastic adventures, the one that got me the most was at the Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve. There was a game drive here too but not as extensive as the one in Pilanesberg. Though it was equally fascinating because we got to go into the enclosures for the predatory animals. Except the lions. The pride was camped out a few dozen yards from the entrance gate, so the attendant couldn't let us in. But we did get into the leopard area and caught sight of two of them lazing about in the sun.
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| Sleepy rhino. |
The best part of this place was, for a small fee, you could go into 4 enclosures with the animals and pet/play with them. The first was very young lion cubs. These guys were only a few months old and about the height of a large cocker spaniel. Got a chance to hold one of these guys. The next one was for older lions. These guys were pretty big. They were pretty lazy too. One didn't like the way Ang was sitting when we tried to get a group shot. And another snagged Jen's NorthFace jacket. Then we got to go into the grown cheetah pen. This cat was really cool. She was just laying there mellow as can be.
The last one was for lion and tiger cubs somewhere between the younger ones and the older ones. These guys were pretty playful. With us and each other. I didn't make it very far before a lion cub flopped down on my leg and decided my Nike was his new favorite chew toy.
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| Fact: Lions love Nikes. |
That's right. A lion cub was chewing on my foot. They have strong solid teeth too! It didn't puncture, and they weren't sharp...at least the way he was chewing. But they were strong. He bit down a little to intensely and It was like getting your toe caught between two screwdrivers. I can't imagine having a set of full grown jaws crushing down on you...yikes! The time went too fast and we had to move on. Fortunately there were plenty of other things to see. A juvenile rhino, a full grown tiger, hyenas and other wild dogs, more lions, another cheetah, and some cool looking birds. There was even one (a stork I think) that was like a troll out of a Grimm's fairytale who stood on a little bridge almost taunting folks to dare to cross it. He got very involved in a random bit of wire for some time. It was humorous.
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| Rafense and Kotsofalong and a tiger cub. |
This was the other park that we took the girls and Bobo to. They seemed to have a great time. We had a great meal at the park's restaurant and even spent some time on the playground. Trampolines again. And ice cream.
Botshabelo
This place is incredible. The Cloete family and all the people there do amazing work. They are inspiring, encouraging, and humbling. It's an orphanage, school, college, and there is a village here too. It's unlike any orphanage I've ever seen. The kids don't live in dormitory housing. They are part of the family. Theirs is an incredible story. You can go to their link, rent or buy Angles in the Dust, or email us at BGC for more info.
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| The girls model dresses that US students made for them. |
We didn't have a major project this year, but there was still a lot done. We helped sort a mountain of donated clothing, purchased food for the several hundred kids in the orphanage, purchased supplies for projects, assisted in setting up the beginning stages of the college's kitchen class room. A kitchen/living area is getting transformed into 5 cooking stations so the students can continue to learn various portions of their Hospitality courses.
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| The college students and the BGC team in the new Kitchen. |
The day we went to Pilanesberg we also visited two prisons. I can't go into detail about what that time taught me, not yet. But I will eventually. Let me just say I saw examples of forgiveness and encouragement that humbled me. It's always a knock in the head when you see other people blow you away and show you deeper levels of things you didn't even know existed. Taking a hit to your pride when you assumed humility was in it's place is not something you take lightly.
It was difficult, sad, infuriating to learn that in South Africa a prison sentence almost certainly carries a death sentence. Not one carried out by the legal system, but by HIV/AIDS. A prison sentence could almost come with a guarantee of infection. Heartbreaking doesn't begin to cover it.
That will be a visit I will carry with me a long time. If you pray, pray for the guys we visited. Pray for Botshabelo, and South Africa in general. Just pray. Powerpoint, songs and sermons aren't needed. Something deeper and more real is.
Back in the village...
While the ladies went shopping for the groceries...which took 5+ hours, I got to wander around the place with various guides. Shanna (one of the Cloete's) took me around to all the projects BGC had a hand in, be it physical or financial, as well as a tour of some of the projects they hoped to do down the road. Con (the patriarch) took me to a piece of property two plots over to show me the land, and house they hope to buy to help expand their college students education and practical application, as well as the fields that are ready for crops. This would help further develop Botshabelo's goals of being self-sustaining.
David (one of the college students) and a few of the other boys took me on a hike back through the village and fields to the graveyard. Last year we had a hand in the burial of two members of the village. It was again a surreal experience being up on that hill. He took me to a grave, then pointed to one of the younger boys with us and told me it was that boy's mother buried there. Next to her was his uncle. It it so different to be there with the kids like that than being in a cemetery here in the States.
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| Hike to the graveyard. |
The long walk back led to a bunch of photos. I also go to take plenty of the kids in the playground, and just what life looks like there. All the animals, the food prep in the now functioning bakery (which was a storage shed last year) a birthday party, lunch served from a folding table in the middle of the playground, and the amazing kids. Take a picture of one, and five more jump in, and all call out "Let me see, let me see!" as soon as you look at the display.
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| Lunch time. |
We spent a few days between the adventures, road trip, and work in Ga-Rankuwa at Botshabelo. And time went way too fast. For everything. The afternoon following our trip to Rhino and Lion, we took part in making firebreaks. That is, they intentionally burn certain portions of the dry grass around buildings incase a real fire breaks out. That way there is a "break" or border around the structures. This was an interesting experience. Kids of all ages were there "helping." Some great photos resulted.
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| This time, we did start the fire. |
One night, near our time to depart, we heard calls that there was a fire up on the hill leading to the graveyard. We made our way in the dark to the village. We could see the tops of the flames, and the red glow lighting the sky. Before we made it, some of the college students and men were on their way down saying they had put it out.
Ang and Patsy went to the store, but this time to the supply store for fencing and other things. I stayed again and took photos and tried to help with some computer/tech stuff. That was abruptly ended when the power went out. This on the day Jen went with Con to Joburg to meet the people at Eskom that she'd been speaking with on the phone back in the States. When she finally got back to the village there was nothing but good reports...and the power came back on.
Before we knew it the trip was over. The last day we helped put some shelving together for the college and sorted out a bunch of supplies to get the cooking stations set up. The night ended with the kids presenting us with some posters they made (Jen if you're reading this I would love one of those!) and some songs. This was followed but a slew of photos being taken, goodbyes said, and lots of hugs and smiles. Once again we loaded up in the dark, various dogs chaperoning, and we said farewell to Botshabelo for another year.
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| BGC and Botshabelo. |
The final day was spent finishing up some things in Ga-Rankuwa for Bebo and her house. Then we said our farewells to Zone-7 and made our way back to Joburg and the airport. Here I finally got a few souvenirs and gifts with out harassment from vendors. Seriously if you ever visit, save your money for the airport shops. You can find most of the items you'd want to buy here. We grabbed our last meal in SA, and headed for our gate. Twenty some hours later we landed back at Dulles.
Separation
Here my tale comes to a sad but funny end. As we were filed into lines for customs I got separated from the ladies. I had some carry-on luggage that was supposed to go with them. I thought I was ushered differently because I had lost my baggage claim slip. No. It was because I was at my final destination and they were going on to Chicago. So there I was with the video camera. I made it through customs and baggage claim in record time. I don't think I've ever gone through even baggage as fast as I did both.
All the while plans were constructed to get the bag to security for the ladies. Then I got a special pass to go to their gate. Only by the time they cleared customs, and I had gone through security and about to que for the metal detector...I got a text saying their flight left in 10 minutes and there was no way to get the bag. So I said my farewells via text. My last images of them for the trip was not in fond farewells and all that camaraderie...it was expressions of "what's going on?" as we were sorted into different people movers.
But hey, nothing ever goes exactly according to plan on an Africa trip. Just remember the Gates of Paradise.
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| Jersey, kids, and dogs. |
And so concludes my 2nd journey to Africa. I know in my heart there will be more. And longer ones too. Thanks for reading! I'll have some more to write in the days ahead that go a little deeper into my own thoughts and reactions to the things we experienced.
For now...farewell, and good night (or morning, afternoon, whathaveyou) and thank you for all the prayers and thoughts for me, the team, and all those we encountered in South Africa and Lesotho.
-Jersey
